June 29, Wesnesday, Madrid

A day in Madrid

The Prado

Temperature:95 degrees

Barajas is like home

We've stayed at the hotel Best Western Villa de Barajas for a total of 5 nights this time and 4 or 5 times in the past years.  The folks are so friendly to us.  One of the men who drives the van to the airport gave us a CD of Spanish guitar music with the title: Adios Muchachos.  Shook hands and said, "see you next year."

Last night we ate at another restaurant right down the street and had fantastic ribs and grilled chicken.  Tomatoes and onions in olive oil - how can it taste so divine?  

And then upon finishing, the waitress gave us a 'digestive ' with wishes that we will return.

That about sums it up.  Tomorrow we depart for Amsterdam and then overnight in Minneapolis and home Friday!

June 28, Tuesday, Santiago to Madrid by tren

Just when we leave we:

Adjust to dinner hour late

Put our bikes together in record time without a hitch 

Riding to the train station: flying down the road, I had the desire:

"Let's keep going"

But not really. Done with hotels, done with meals out, done with wearing the same clothes.  It's time.  

Train to Madrid Chamartin station from Santiago, train to the airport, terminal 4, van from Villa de Barajas picked us up.  

That's the day.  And it's all downhill from here! 

June 27, Monday, Santiago de Compostela

After a lovely breakfast at the hotel Mourre, we walked to the team station so that we'd know the way to ride when we leave tomorrow.  Found it easily but CC didn't have his passport with him so we couldn't buy the Tarjeta Dorada for people over 60 so that we can purchase tickets for 49 percent less.  Good for a year.  So we  walked back to the Cathedral for the moon Pilgrim's mass. Third time.  The place was packed full. Mingled with pilgrims, talked about experiences and all that.  Not the same feeling as walking but still enjoyable.  People watching is always good and this is some of the best!! 

A walk back to our hotel and another walk to the train station ensued.  We had 8 miles by day's end and no fatigue:) 

Found an unusual middle eastern restaurant on the way back and enjoyed some hummus and chicken curry - a nice  contrast to the Spain cuisine we have had. 

Then the best part of the day: Siesta!!

Followed by Traditional Wiwne at the Parador

Followed by more walking, window shopping and then dinner at ourother favorite restaurant where Craig had steak in a port wine sauce.  Making mental note.  We are preparing to come home: note water with dinner, not wine! And I had that Arzua cheese -mmm.

   

June 26. Sunday, Guitirez to Santiago - 47 miles

We left early today: BC in our lingo:  before coffee!!  Oh and by the way, coffee became the motto of our VaughanTown experience.  We will not forget that. 

 It is worth commenting that since we left at 8 and the Spanish do not move until 9, the hotel concierge left the key to their storehouse under a rock so we could get our bikes out.  Inside:  their huge stash of wine, beer, alcohol and other commodities.  There is trust here.  And not fear on a daily basis that crimes, petty and otherwise will be committed.  Lots of sunshine today, a big tail wind and some reasonable momentum hills to begin our journey into Santiago.  The sunshine and the winds prevailed but the hills got big ...again.  

"Marilyn get over". That is the sound I hear from Craig as he seeks to keep me alive when my inclination is to ride towards the middle of the road.  

So we arrived in Santiago. Oh yes we did.

And it's all so familiar, this being our third time here. We were tired of course and there is the inevitable asjustment but first let's simply relish the feeling and our beautiful hotel room because the proprietors remember us from the last two times.  Costa Vella or Hotel Moura.

So from Bilbao: 330 miles, 495 kilometers total. 

I wrote this to a friend a day or two ago and it says what I'm feeling:

I too am having many feelings , some ambivalent about our journey coming to an end. Tomorrow we hope to arrive in Santiago, the end of the bicycling , the ritual of pilgrims at the mass and then the travel by bus or tren back to Madrid.

I expressed to Craig just before I left our hotel room to come downstairs and have a glass of wine that I don't want to continue traveling and staying in different places and hotels and eating meals out but I don't know quite how to pick up our lives again.  This becomes a way of living.

I miss our family and our grands so so much always and friends as well.

He agreed. We have no solutions and none are needed. We just move on and through counting our blessings and absorbing all the goodness from being together and affirming our commitment to living as well as we can.  It is the "best revenge " , is it not?  Someone said that:)

And my friend wrote back:

" I imagine you are going to revel in getting back home. The weather here is exquisite. The soul loves contrast."

That settles it.  The soul loves contrast.

And we see all the encouraging posts on FB and from our friends from VaughanTown on What's App and feel so thankful for this life. I am dedicating this trip to those friends in need of an extra bundle of positive thoughts. 

One of many concerts in a square.

We have our Compostelas. 

June 25, Saturday Vilalba to Guiritiz, 20 miles

Don't have the inclination to write today.  So many feelings and experiences to sort through. Can't find the words now. 

Notes and lots of photos with captions: 

The relentless lesson: take less stuff!

 Today's ride- momentum hills are the best! 

Cool, clouds and sun breaks 

Can't understand the Spanish here since everyone speaks Galego but it's ok

It's a new day

Division of duties between us. So smooth

Recovery time - so essential 

Timeless ageless feeling - focus on our daily rhythm- start out- solve the puzzle- of where to go, where to eat, where to rest and settle in

Endorphins -  a big deal 

Our bodies respond to movement- overall feeling of well being

Not much media - immune or distanced from fears - time out of mind

Coffee!!

Hostal la Casilla - we are here tonight

Children's size camel pak -  I love having it- makes a huge difference in stamina and comfort for me

Difference of cycling from walking -  still have time and energy to wander afterwards - 6 miles or so most days but not yesterday - the day from hell

Coffee first!! 

Craig waits (patiently) as I finish my coffee. The chains are oiled after yesterday's wet ride. What a guy!

The ravages of yesterday. The apple that was and the seat that is shredding!

Up again.  When the road no longer has two lanes in the same direction , we rejoice!

Galicia

Yes. This is accurate.  And it is in miles. I shocked myself.

Horreros.  I love them.

A Spanish woman- obviously not on the Camino!

Sent to us by a Spanish man after the Brexit vote.  No!! 

It's 9 pm and we're the first to enter the dining room.

Still eating.... 

A fiesta in town tonight!  

June 24, Friday, Ribadeo to Vilalba 45 miles

In a little town now after a mega day. Started out with rain, then added huge hills that never stopped. Then a detour that brought traffic galore.  We made it! 45 miles.  Endorphin high.  Now going for some food and drink. It's the little things.

Can be in Santiago in 2 or 3 days.

No photos today. 

Every trip has a day like this.  So good in retrospect.

We had a lovely dinner and a great sleep.

Meanwhile Brexit happened. People are stunned.  

June 23, Thursday Luarca to Ribadeo by bus

We made the decision to take the bus.  The storm yesterday still threatened and we don't feel comfortable riding in wet and stormy conditions. Walking is different. You put on the layers and hunker down; not so with bikes. It's more dangerous. Cars, slippery roads, wet brakes, poor visibility. 

Anyway, it was a good thing. We realized we needed the rest.  Once in Ribadeo, we quickly found the hotel I was seeking and checked in.  Nice, modern, $60 with breakfast.  Not riding enabled us to take a long 6 mile walk along the ocean.  This is our last day along the ocean; we turn inland tomorrow towards Santiago so it was lovely to stroll along. Had we ridden all day, we would not have wanted to take this walk.  Things do have a way of working out.

This trip is so many things:  a renewal of vows in our own way, an adventure, a cultural exploration, a physical challenge, a social event, and a personal retreat with lots of alone time.

Now to sustain it upon return to life at home.  

And now the photos from the day:

Leaving Luarca.  We've got the bike folding down:)

Ribadeo.  We are now in Galicia!

Love the sea always

Caldo Gallego.  Galician soup. So good. And good to be back in Galicia- the last province on the Camino. 

1 beer, 3 glasses of wine, 2 soups, and a big mixed salad with bread=22 Euros! 

Hotel Bouza is where we are. 

See Craig eating yogurt! 

He'd like to live where the geraniums are!!

June 22, Wednesday Aviles to Luarta by bus!

The So here's the scoop for today.

We lounged around until about 9 and then took the bus to Luarca, a lovely, lively fishing town about 50 miles down the road. We are now snuggled into a Lockyer room with a view overlooking the harbor as a big thunder and lightening storm rages.  No one is in the streets. Spaniards do not like to be in the rain.   We will assess tomorrow and if the weather is bad, take another bus to Ribadeo.  That is the beauty of Sudoko travel.  We are not beholden to a schedule.  Walking could be ok in this weather but not cycling.  It's too dangerous to be out on the roads with no protection. Slippery, brakes could fail, no towns close by. No thanks. So we adjust and enjoy.  

We had a fine lunch.  Gazpacho and a salad.

A stroll. Look! I'm not in my bike clothes.

Wednesday is market day.

And then a siesta listening to kplu.

The view from our room.

And here is the group picture of our buddies from Vaughantown.

I'm a lucky girl.

Joined at the hip.  In a good way.  We are grateful for this time together. 

Off to dinner. It's 8:30.  The evening is just beginning in Spain. 

Cocida de Asturias minus the morcilla.

Merluza- fish stew

Strange birds of Luarca (including the one on the bridge)

Buenas noches. Big storm happening. Stay tuned to see what tomorrow brings 

Sudoko travel continues.

June 21, Tuesday Villaviciosa to Aviles 35 miles

Oh and what miles they were!

We were Up at 6:30, out at 7:35.  Coffee at the cafe run by the hotel which was a good thing since:

Today was the day of the hill.  I have an app that rates the difficulty of each stage of the Camino by stars.  Another app shows the elevation of the route.  I knew this was coming. For a day we thought we would avoid it by dropping down and going on the Camino Primitivo but changed our minds.  The name alone was intimidating!  So The 5 star hill was upon us and it lasted for 10 miles.  Yes it did.  But we made it and another lesson in the uselessness of worry was presented, not sure if it was learned:)

We walked, we took our time, we reveled in the downhill though that is scary to me as well.  I did learn never to use front brake without the back though that event occurred on another day.

Then came Gijon . City of 300,000. We Stopped  at a cafe on the way in knowing we were not going to stay here but not sure how we would navigate getting through.  Think a city the size of Tacoma. Lucky break:a guy having a coffee next to us told us how to go around the city via the beaches all on a bike path.  I could be considered high maintenance but occasionally I come through with something we consider great.

A fantastic scene!  Alas, our bike path ran out before we reached Aviles but not the hills.  Craig says we really only need a one speed bike; one with the lowest gear for the hills because we coast the rest of the time.  

Onto Aviles through a very industrial segment. It's a hot day. After another stop for tortilla and bocadillo and cold beverages we made it to the old town of Aviles where we found Pension la Fruta for 30 Euros. The woman who ran it talked with me for a long time.  Seems the women of this province of Asturias are strong and powerful. She liked to say , "Superwoman".  Same issues as everywhere/. Corruption in the government and high taxes for no social services . Spain has not had a government for months: elections are Sunday. Tomorrow is the Brexit vote.  And we hear of course and read all the news of Trump.  He is not likes here one bit.  The woman also talked incredulously about violence and guns in the US. Yup.

So we have a plan now.  We are going to Santiago.  Tomorrow we will make a 50 mile jump by bus to Luarca and then we should be able to reach Santiago by Sunday or Monday.  It's interesting how having a goal propels us on.  

Sometimes the goal can just be finding some ice cream.

We will be ready to come home.  But there are some special pasts of this trip. I will try to mention that another time.  

June 20 Ribadesella to Villaviciosa 24 miles

Started earlier this morning after a breakfast of pancakes for Craig and tostada with tomato and cheese for me.  Beautiful weather and scenery. The usual array of hills and hills but we did fine, walking when we needed to.  

And a lovely corner room with a view for 35 Euros at Hotel Casa Espana. There are quite a few cycling pilgrims in this town as well as the walking kind.  We took long siestas this afternoon and then strolled the town. At 10:30 we are still waiting for darkness to fall on this longest day of the year.  Happy solstice.  Let there be light! 

Dinner-the ubiquitous French fries- but no ketchup in sight!